The resurgence of cut-throats has spawned a new generation of craftsmen who are creating some truly gorgeous works of functional art. From Tim Zowada to Robert Williams, this new breed of razor makers captures our collective imagination with their creative designs, captivating lines, and attention to detail. However, as a buyer, there are a lot of features to consider before commissioning a razor by one of these talented craftsmen, not the least of which is price.
The first thing that comes to mind when commissioning a custom razor may well be the least important (functionally speaking): the aesthetics. Of course, we trust the craftsman to give us the aesthetics that we crave while providing a razor that performs as well as comparatively ordinary mass production razor. However, we do need to consider how our desired design will affect the razors functionality. Remember that your razor will need to be maintained, so the shape of the blade needs to fall within your ability to perform the required maintenance. Swaybacks and Elite French Tips (as dubbed by Robert Williams) demand a skilled hand. They also provide an excellent shaving experience.
Of course, the grind and scale material are important considerations as well. This will be a matter of personal preference, but the methods used to grind custom razors lend themselves more to thicker grinds. If you are a buyer who prefers heavy grinds, then you're in luck. Of course, some of the elite razor smiths are making quality hollow grind razors, but if that's what you want, you may be better served to buy a Revisor Extra or something similar. If you are interested in a particular set of scales, you can commission some really good ones (and other kinds as well...). Is wood the right material for you? Mother of Pearl, Mammoth, Narwhal Tusk, etc. really add to the price of a razor as well as such features as file work, engraving, or damascus steel. But, a custom razor is supposed to be custom, and it's supposed to be bit of a frivolous purchase. So that's ok! However, it needs to be a frivolous, functional purchase...
The balance of the razor remains extremely important. While the razor in the picture below is among the most visually stunning examples of a custom razor smith's work, the long shank and hefty scales render it a bit unwieldy and unbalanced in a practical sense... Having had two razors from this maker, and discussing it with others, I've found that it's a common observation with his works. Please note that this isn't a slight. I've got a lot of respect for his skills and this work of art, but in terms of functionality, it's a bit lacking...
Probably the most important aspect of a razor is the quality of the steel. Of course, all of these makers use different steels, and some even have their own recipe. The bottom line is that no matter how beautiful a razor is, if the steel is lacking, it will be a complete waste of money. In this regard, using a reputable maker is absolutely critical.
Of course, there's no accounting for taste, but don't overlook these practical considerations when commissioning a custom razor. Just know your custom razor may be more beautiful than any of the vintage or new production razors in your collection, but that doesn't mean it will shave any better. In fact, it likely won't blow you away. But it's not all about functionality, now is it? With the cost of a custom razor ranging from $350-$1,500 USD or more, it needs to at least be above average where it counts, though.
