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If you really want to learn...

January 20, 2011 — Paul

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With the previously incomprehensible development of turning shaving into a hobby has come the same propensity for "acquisition disorders" (ADs) that plagues many other hobbies.  While the commercializing of a hobby is problematic to some, there's a more important reason I blanch at the praise and enabling of ADs: it retards the learning process.  I understand the desire to fund your hobby through commercializing it, it doesn't bother me.  However, new guys succumbing to temptation to acquire new things too soon really hinders their journey to successful, repeatable straight razor use.

Using a straight razor is significantly more difficult than the use of a "cartridge" razor.  If you are like me, you never received much of a formal tutorial of "how to shave".  My dad very much felt that if I was too stupid to learn to shave with a cartridge razor and the canned goo I was given, then I was too stupid to live... The only tip I got was, "if you don't shave, I'll go get a cat to lick that off your face."  He wasn't as funny as he thought...

So, like many of the members of the major forums, I was learning several new skills at the same time: how to make a proper lather, how to strop, how to shave, how to hone, how to care for my razors, etc.  All this while trying to keep my face from looking like I got in a fight with a bobcat (a significant task considering I have a pretty severe natural tremor that becomes almost comical when coupled with the slightest bit of anxiety).

The fact that these skills require a lot of work to master couldn't be more obvious to those who are active on the straight razor forums.  In fact, one of the major straight razor forums even has officially recognized "mentors" who are part of the staff (of which I am one).  The practice of using and caring for straight razors is describes by some as an "art", and as such there is an understood difficulty being conveyed to those who hear it.

Because the use of a straight razor is so demanding on your dexterity and mental focus, introducing a lot of new variables is discouraged for all new straight razor shavers...  except by other "newbies".  As new guys work their way into the scene, they tend to read the experiences of guys with many more years of experience and think they have to immediately accumulate a "wealth" of similar experience so that they can be relevant in their online discussions.  

What this leads to is huge "collections" of razors, hones, soaps, strops,  and brushes...  But, the learning process suffers.  I know because I fell into the trap I'm describing.  Having a lot of varied experience with several of the items, I thought I really knew what I was doing.  Then, one day I decided to put everything away and focus on a limited kit.  

What I learned was,

a) my stropping was not maintaining my razors as long as I thought, 

b) what software I use, is more important than I thought,

c) all strops are not created equal

 This was very much an eye opening experience because having shaved with many freshly honed razors, I *thought* my stropping was adequate.  Yet, I learned that I had some work to go.  Furthermore, I gained a much better understanding of what was going on with my skin and my razors which led to a more minimalist honing approach.

I had a similar revelation specific to hones and honing.  If you read the forums often, you know that the discussion of what the "best" hone is can be as heated as it is tired.  The truth of the matter is that there really aren't any hones that are significantly better than their counterparts.  Synthetics tend to be more reliable for various reasons (don't require use with slurry, dilution phases, and are consistent from specimen to specimen).  However, they aren't superior to natural stones in the right hands (It's the hands, Stupid, after all).

In fact, the consensus among the most seasoned honers is that the finish really isn't all that significantly different from finishing stone to finishing stone.  If you never experience the über-sharp, legendarily smooth Escher edge, you honestly aren't missing that much...  The same can be said of the "Kosher" coticule, Shapton 30K, Japanese natural, etc., etc., etc...

If you really want to learn how to shave with a straight razor:

  • Invest in a couple of very high quality soaps or creams
  • Get 1 very good brush
  • Buy 2 very good razors (truly good, not "OMG, Look at my new Filla!" good)
  • Get a high quality strop with a linen component (don't buy that abomination of a Filly Strop)
  •  Get a finishing hone (seriously, it doesn't much matter which)
  • And most importantly - put everything else away, forget about experiencing new things, and focus on "mastering" your gear (note mastering is used in the sense of "understand perfectly")

If you focus on the things outlined above, your learning process will be much more rewarding, and when you do branch off to new experiences, you'll be more prepared for the differences.  That will make the new journey of mastering your new equipment that much more rewarding.