Without razors, straight razor shaving would not be half the fun it can be. Maybe even less. However, there is a lot of confusion about buying razors. Especially amongst beginners. In this article, I will try and dispel some popular myths, give highly subjective advice on what to look for in a beginner razor, and highlight some common pitfalls.
Excalibur or, there is no such thing as a killer shaver
If you have spent more than two minutes on any of the large shaving forums, you will have come across someone who claims to have just found the best razor ever. Forget it. There is no such thing. There are modern razors, typically from Pakistan, that will never take an edge, never work, never be worth their money. There are also certain modern production German razors that come with an 800% markup. But if you buy vintage, new old stock, or modern production from Germany (Revisor, Wacker, Dovo), France (Thiers Issard) or the US (Hart), these razors will shave. End of story.
Here are some more urban legends, and my personal take on them:
- 'New razors need to be honed before they are ready to use.' Yeah, right. I cannot speak for TI or Hart, but as for the Solingen manufacturers, this is bollocks. Make no mistake, the factory edges leave room for enhancement. But they will shave. Especially for a beginner, many things can - and will - go wrong. A so called 'killer edge' is the least of your worries. If you can get a razor 'pre honed' without a markup, take the vendor up on the offer. But never expect a miracle. It will take months before you can fully appreciate such an edge, by which time it will be long gone.
- 'Vintage steel is the best.' It might be. I own a few vintage blades. I also own a few modern production razors. My favourite razors come from both camps, incidentally in equal numbers. Unless there is a compelling reason, nothing should keep you from buying a new production razor, not least for reasons of customer protection.
- 'Stiffer grinds are better for tougher beards.' In reality, a well sharpened razor will cut any beard. A large hollow blade may be more difficult to use because of its flexibility, but using the right technique, it will shave like any other blade type.
A good beginner razor
Now that we have got the marketing nonsense out of the way, what really makes a good beginner razor?
- It is affordable. Be prepared to spend between USD 50 and USD 100. My personal favourite is this Revisor. Another good choice is the Dovo "Best Quality" 6/8.
- It is bland. In every war, there is collateral damage. As a beginner, you will kill the etching and goldwash on your fancy new razor. Save yourself the anguish. Buy a razor that is bland. Again, Dovo and Revisor fit the bill.
- It is easy to maintain. Steer clear of smiling razors (ie ones with a curved edge), wedges (ie razors that need a lot of metal removed when sharpening), and anything with ornaments (see 2. above) or fancy scales. Small shanks, lack of jimps, or thumbnotches will make stropping or sharpening unnecessarily hard. A good number of vintage blades fall into one or more of these categories, by the way.
- It has a high resale value. Unless you are a sentimental type, you will sell that razor, or trade it for another one with different characteristics. Modern production razors offer excellent resale value, while many vintage ones are subjected to hype, and their prices can vary (compare prices for Wade and Butcher now, two, and three years ago).
- Avoid the big vintage brand names like the plague. They will cost you a lot of money, but no-one likes to buy from a beginner (ie, you) later. If you can get a Dubl Duck in great shape for USD 50, get it. But keep in mind that some restoration still might have to be done, and add honing to that - bang! another USD 100 or more out the door. For a razor that will not shave better than a modern Revisor or Dovo.
Digging your own financial grave or, why eBay is your natural enemy
Every now and then, someone haunts the big forums, going, 'look, I got this killer deal off eBay!!!!' It happens. But it will not happen to you. At least not for a long time. Collectors and commercial restorers are all over the place, and they know exactly what they are looking for and how to get it. Besides, every so called killer deal has a history of previous duds, usually outweighing the money allegedly saved in said killer deal.
- Buy from a reputable source. There are dozens of online vendors out there, and the ones longest in business are typically those who provide the best service. Keep in mind that your idea of a defect and that of the vendor may vary greatly. Europeans have much better customer protection than US Americans across the board, and that is something you might want to factor in. USD 10 saved can become USD 100 lost fairly quickly.
- Buy from a local source if possible. Online shops typically offer better prices. But literally nothing beats first hand experience. Some razors look good but feel awkward.
- Keep an open mind. Do not let your judgement be clouded by hype. There are no silver bullets in straight shaving, no matter how much money you spend. Do a background check on the person recommending a certain razor. There are two major pitfalls here:
- People with a mental disorder described as RAD (aka razor acquisition disorder). Getting to know a razor takes time. Sharpening it till it has reached its peak performance takes even more time. '7 months in, I got 150 razors!!!!!' is tantamount to saying, 'I have more money than sense.' I would never judge the quality of a razor after l had shaved with it for some time (except in the rare cases where I can be certain that the razor has been tuned to perfection for me already). If such people recommend a certain razor, buy another.
- People with Stockholm Syndrome. Just because someone paid USD 500 for it does not mean his Filarmonica is better than a Revisor. It takes some courage to admit that spending too much money was a mistake, and many people lack that courage. I once paid USD 150 for a Wade & Butcher with custom scales. By the time I had had it re-customised to less of an eye sore, I had spent more than USD 300. I never liked the way it shaved. I sold it. It happens. If someone recommends a razor like that, buy another.
- Do not let greed and envy be your guide. Yes, some razors are beautiful. Typically, they were photographed by people who are selling them or intend to sell them shortly afterwards. Especially in the realm of custom scale designs, you can lose a lot of money. First for a razor with tacky scale, then because you will find that the razor's resale value is horrid.
To sum this up: Buy locally, buy for performance and not looks, and buy a razor that feels good in your hands. There is lots of time to branch out once you have acquired the basic skills.
